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Textiles and Clothing

In the South African textiles, clothing and leather sub- sector, which represents 15% of the manufacturing sector, textiles contributed 54% at R1.6-billion and clothing 27% at R0.8-billion.

As well as supplying the domestic market, the textile manufacturing sector has an export bias and nearly a third of South Africa's manufactured textile exports originate in KwaZulu-Natal.

The Industry

The textiles, clothing and footwear industry is well established in South Africa. The industry consists of around 300 manufacturers, based mainly in KwaZulu-Natal, the Western Cape, the Eastern Cape and Gauteng. Statistics SA data indicate that employment dropped in the clothing, textile and footwear industries from 206 947 in January 2003 to 142 203 in June 2006 (a loss of 64 744 jobs). The direct cause of the decline in employment is the surge of Chinese imports over the past 3 years.

Employment in the textile industry alone has declined from 70 500 in 2003 to just below 50 500 in 2006, according to the textile federation. Textiles exports grew 60% from 1995 to 2002, but declined 35.6% through 2003 and 2004. Wearing apparel performed more impressively with 2002 levels 227% higher than in 1995. However, 2003 and 2004 also saw export levels decline significantly, contracting by 45.9% in real terms.

Textile Factory
Textile Factory

The import of textiles and clothing to the South African market by China has put increasing strain on the domestic manufacturing industry, leading to the demise of a number of companies, including KwaZulu-Natal’s largest textile manufacturer. The company, which closed its doors at the end of 2004, blamed cheap imports from India, China, Pakistan and Indonesia for a R200m loss of turnover in the last two years that it operated.

The textile industry in South Africa can be segmented into the following major sectors:

• Fibre production
• Spinning
• Weaving
• Knitting
• Non-wovens
• Carpet production
• Fabric Coating

Carpet Factory
Carpet Factory

Textiles and Apparel

The fibre consumption is 247,000 tons per annum by South Africa’s textile industry’s 460,000 spindles for spinning yarn and 3,000 looms and 2,000 knitting machines to convert the yarn into 560 million sq metres of fabric. The fabric is then converted by the apparel industry into 191 million apparel units. Apparel covering most of the ranges in men's, ladies and children's wear are produced mainly in the Western Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, Gauteng and Eastern Cape regions.

Some companies, of which one is based in Ladysmith, process the fibre or raw cotton into yarn or cotton. This cotton, of which approximately 3300 tons are produced annually, is distributed to Pietermaritzburg and Durban to be used in the textile industry.

The clothing sector is also well established, with three levels of manufacturers in KwaZulu-Natal. There are approximately 525 clothing firms, 416 of which are based in Durban, Pinetown, Inanda and Chatsworth. Of these, at least 320 are operations handling cut, make and trim. Other participants are design houses and independent retailers who specialise in pre-production and distribution.

A company based in Pietermaritzburg that processes fibre and yarn to manufacture carpets, imports 10,140 tons of raw products annually from Europe. The raw materials such as nylon polymer and latex that are used in the manufacturing of these carpets originate from Belgium and Germany respectively. The primary and secondary backing originates from Saudi Arabia and Belgium. All these raw products are shipped in 6 and 12 metre containers from Europe and Saudi Arabia to the port of Durban. The company produces approximately 9,932 tons of carpets per year, which are distributed by road to the rest of KwaZulu-Natal, all over South Africa and exported to Australia, Saudi Arabia, South America and the Far East.

Imports are at an all-time high. Imports of yarns have increased from 77,000 tons in 2001 to 99,000 tons in 2006 - an increase of 29% - while imports of fabrics have remained relatively constant with 94,900 tons in 2001 and 95,300 tons in 2006. A significant increase was in the imports of made-up textiles - from 4,900 tons in 2001 to 28,700 tons in 2006 (nearly 500%), and imports of clothing from 139 million items in 2001 to 567 million items in 2006 (over 300%).

In the case of clothing imports, 89% currently originates from China, 3% from India and the remaining 8% from the rest of the world, while 60% of all made-up textiles (blankets, bed sheets, towels and curtains) originate from China.

The textile industry statistics are listed in the table below.


Footwear Industry

The domestic footwear industry consists of approximately 112 manufacturers under the umbrella of the Southern African Footwear and Leather Industries Association (SAFLIA) and the National Bargaining Council, and at least 60 other SMMEs.

Approximately 60-62 % of footwear (by volume) manufactured in South Africa takes place in KwaZulu-Natal, and therefore it is the predominant footwear producing area in South Africa, followed by the Western Cape with an approximate share of 23%. It is estimated that the large chain stores control at least 35% of the local retail market. These situations are changing rapidly as customers are becoming more and more price and quality sensitive and are shopping at cash stores. The balance of footwear production is located in the Eastern Cape (11%) and Northern Province (4%).

Transport

Details of the tons of different commodities that may have been imported or exported through Durban are unobtainable due to the fact that all such movements are in containers, and are therefore not recorded by the port authorities.

In addition, the measurement of the transport task is complicated by the fact that outputs of the various factories are measured in a range of units such as square metres (carpets), pairs (shoes), dozens (many items), and very few undertakings have records of the weight of their products.

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